Summer Lovin'

Now that summer school is over, and I am still "funemployed," I have had a lot of time to climb lately. I have recently started picking up bouldering, as I finally feel I have enough strength to enjoy working problems. After a week, I was able to finish my first V4, the Monkey Traverse in Flagstaff, and it felt pretty easy once I figured out the beta and took my time on the two no-hands rests. I spent a session on The Consideration V4, and I feel it will go during the next session. I think after that, I will start working on V5s at Three of a Kind and the Red Wall as well.

          After getting my ass kicked in Yosemite Valley, I have decided to build my traditional "pyramid" by climbing all of the sub-5.10 routes in Eldo that Levin gives 3 or 4 stars in his guidebook. After excluding the routes I had already ticked, that left about 60 routes total. The first couple sessions, my roommate Mike and I ticked off about three routes on Wind Tower a day. We were able to climb Pseudo Sidetrack with the direct finish (5.5R) and Recon 5.6 (11 pitches total linked down to 6) in just under 4 hours, car to car. Recently, I summited Shirt Tail Peak, the highest point in Eldorado, with my future roommate Nick on the route Gambit 5.8.  Though this is easy goings for now, I am a bit apprehensive about the 5.9+R/X cimbs I will have to do in the near future, like Highway of Diamonds, The Flaw, and Jack the Ripper. I plan on ticking these after feeling comfortable on the 10s in Eldo. 

          After 2 failed attempts in RMNP, my buddy Colin convinced me to go and climb the Diamond on Monday with him on Ariana 5.12a. Colin is training for his Alpine Mentorship tryouts in October and is climbing up in the park at least once a week. We woke up in the parking lot at 3:30, and after a power breakfast of Pop-Tarts and chai tea, we headed out on the 6 mile approach. We soloed up the North Chimney soon after sunup, and started on the first 11a pitch. I was originally going to lead all 3 5.9 pitches, but after I lead the 70’ 5.9 second pitch, we decided that under this time crunch, Colin would lead the rest for time’s sake. The sun was hidden behind the smoke from the fires all day, and it was definitely chillier than I had expected; it even snowed on us on the fifth and sixth pitches. As Colin started up the 4^th pitch crux, I was surprised to see just how much he was sewing it up. We did bring triples from blue Metolius to .4 Camalot, and Colin used up almost every piece. He did end up falling once and taking twice, but he seems convinced now that he knows the beta, he can send it in a good weather day (when it’s warm enough to feel your fingers). I now know that climbing at 13.5 thousand feet is a completely different story, and shouldn’t be taken lightly. We made it back to the car at about 8, for a total time of 16 hours car to car.

           Gil Weiss’ memorial was today in Boulder, and unfortunately, I could not make it. I had only briefly met and climbed with him in Devil’s Tower and Yosemite, but his zeal for climbing and life was infectious. I had always been told that if you climb long enough, a friend will be lost to the mountain sometime. I had accepted this to be true, but I had not expected this to happen to me after only 2 years of climbing. I ask those that read this to be careful and safe, and remind everyone that your actions affect more people than you know.

          This is my first blog, but you will definitely hear more from me in the near future.